At first thought one would probably think of Austria's climate as being quite cool. In the Alps and the western and northern reaches of the country this is true. The eastern plains that border Hungary and Slovenia, however, are a different story all together. Right in the heart of this region is Mittelburgenland, and this is Austria's red wine country, with 95-percent of the vineyards planted to red wine varietals.

Traditional wines such as Blaufrankisch, Saint Laurent, and Zweigelt dominate production, but varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are being seen with greater regularity. Though the region is indeed warm, proper ripeness tends to be a chronic problem for Cabernet Sauvignon in particular, despite the fact that many growers have taken it up as the holy grail. More dependable wines tend to be made from Blaufrankisch and Saint Laurent.

Blaufrankisch has often been confused with Gamay, but it was probably brought from Hungary as opposed to France. The wines tend to be light in body, though certainly fuller than most Gamays. As with many Austrian reds the use of new oak barrels is not uncommon, and the ripe raspberry qualities of the grape tend to incorporate the spice of the wood in an attractive way. Blaufrankisch also tends to be lighter in tannin and quite accessible upon release.

As for Saint Laurent, the Austrians tend to think that it is a member of the Pinot family, and its characteristics lend some credence to this theory. Indeed, Saint Laurents, like Pinot Noirs, are lighter in body, with ethereal, heady, and exotic bouquets. Though tricky to grow, successful examples are consistently among the finest Austrian reds.