Graves (pronounced Grahves) and a more particular sub region within Graves, Pessac-Léognan, lie just to the southwest of the city of Bordeaux. It has been renowned for its dramatic red wines for centuries, but in the last 50 years urban sprawl has eradicated many of the best vineyard sites. Indeed, the two finest properties, the Haut-Brion siblings, are rather startlingly walled-in (complete with graffiti) from a very urban setting, so much for the romance of wine country. That aside, the red Graves that is produced (particularly in the mini "super-appellation" of Pessac) can be fantastic. It has an unmistakable tobacco and cedar-scented quality with a certain sense of lightness despite the firm Cabernet-based structure. These are very serious wines that show a great deal of individual character. In this, the day of the international standard of winemaking, that's saying something.